Directions On Artificial Stone Paving REQUIREMENTS ON MATERIAL

• Artificial Stone Specification : For floor application, we suggest that stone board thickness≥15mm,and sizes based on the thickness;For wall application, we suggest that stone board thickness ≥ 12mm,and sizes ≤ 600mm × 600mm; For dry fixation on the wall: we suggest that stone board thickness ≥ 20m, and sizes based on the thickness. BMG Deal only with indigenous granites and marbles untill 2005.
• Stone dedicated adhesive.

NOTICES FOR CONSTRUCTION PREPARATION

• The substrate shall be kept flat, clean, free from oil dirt, concreterelease or other impurities.
• The workface shall be exempted from any chemical agent residue,which shall be removed prior to construction.
• Enpty or loose substrate shall be amended, and uneven substrate shall be repaired and leveled with polymer (DJ interfacial agent) cement mortar.
• The stone dedicated adhesive must be uniformly mixed, because the non-uniform stone dedicated adhesive has inferior structure, not only offers poor adhesion, but may crack and lead to upper stone damage in case of heavy loading.

CONSTRUCTION WORK

1.Application on the floor:

• Mark a leveling baseline on the floor, and remove the portion of floor that's higher than the baseline and fill up the portion that＇slower than the baseline to facilitate construction.
• When the stone dedicated adhesive is used, please add appropriate amount of water into it and mix it well according to usage instructions.
• When the stone dedicated adhesive is used for paving, the paving height is determined by the flatness of the paving surface, with a thickness of 2-15mm. if the paving surface is not flat, cement mortar shall be used for leveling before applying the adhesive.
• After height adjustment, the artificial stone is paved and slightly hammered with a wood or rubber hammer to make the stone dedicated adhesive closely bond the stone; meanwhile joints between adjacent stone boards shall be aligned; if one or several pieces of stone boards is (are) at a level same as the others, if (they) shall be taken away, and substrate levelness shall be adjusted again, then Steps 3.1.3 and 3.1.4 be repeated.In general condition, about 1.5-3mm width joints shall be retained between stone boards to facilitate water evaporation and stress release. For large area application, an 8mm expansion joint shall be arranged at 5m interval in both length and width directions to prevent stone board protrusion or breakage due to floor / structural expansion or shrinkage.After stone board paving, the joints shall be filled up in 3-5 days to make stone dedicated adhesive dry in normal condition. A dedicated sealant shall be used for joint filling, and the overflow sealant shall be removed after filling operation.

2. Application on the wall:

• Clean the wall and make it straight.
• Mark a construction baseline and regulate the plumb line fromup to down as per construction drawing indication.
• Apply the stone dedicated adhesive on the wall for two rounds.
• Apply a film of adhesive on the back of the stone board witha trowel, stick the board on the wall by pressing and make it flat with a rubber hammer.
• Retain a 1.5-3mm width joint between each longitudinal layer of stones and isolate them with pads; construct a layer each day and ensure borders, corners and junction surfaces of the boards in straightness.
• Use hangers to support the stone boards if necessary in case of doors, windows or orches on the wall.
• Remove stains on the stone boards after construction.
• The stone boards containing thick moisture shall be subject to moisture resistant treatment before construction.
• Seal the joints in 48 hours after stone boards construction.
• Wall fixation of stone boards.
• Setting out: determine horizontal and vertical baselines as well as wall / column lines at first, then define positions of stone boards and fixtures on the wall as per stone board division drawing.

3. Wall fixation of stone boards:

• Setting out: determine horizontal and vertical baselines as well as wall / column lines at first, then define positions of stone boards and fixtures on the wall as per stone board division drawing.
• Boring: drill set screw holes to the given depth at the positions where stainless steel fixtures are to be located.
• Hammer the drop-in set screws into individual positions.
• Lock the stainless steel fixtures.
• Hang the pre-cut stone boards on the fixtures which are fixed into grooves and fill in the grooves with epoxy resin to ensure the fixtures tightly bond to stone boards without disposition. The fixtures shall also be fully sealed with epoxy resin to prevent then from rust due to air exposure.
• Ensure borders, corners and junction surfaces of the boards in straightness.
• Retain 1.5-3mm width joints between stone boards and fill in them with weathering resistant silicone sealant.

Introduction About Construction TILING STEPS

• Unpack to check the size and color number of products so as to use products of the same color number at the same place and avoid confusing products of different color numbers(unless to obtain a special decorative effect intentionally)
• Before formal tiling, do some trial work on the ground first. Only after the products of the same color number and size are used up can products of similar color number and size be used. Tiles of different color number and size should be separated and numberedon the bottom for easy identification. If there are designs or directional patterns on tile surface, the tiles should be laid according to the direction of the designs to achieve the best decorative effect.
• Currently, wet laying and dry laying are the two commonly used methods for laying ground tiles. Wet laying method: Clean the site and spray some water to facilitate working. Mix 325#cement and sand into mortar at the ratio of 1:3.Use a board about 1m 1ong to fully level out the layer of mortar 25mm ~ 35mm in thickness. Peg out for the laying.

Spread

• Cement powder on the ground and even it out before spreading some more cement powder. Lay the tiles according to the pegging to increase the adhesiveness between the times and the cement mortar.

Dry laying method:

    Clean the ground and wet it with water first. Spread a layer of cement mortar mixed at the ratio of 1:0.4 ~ 0.5 and then a binding course of dry cement mortar about 50mm thick mixed at the ratio of 1:3. Tamp the layer and fully 1evel it out. Peg out . Spread a layer of cement paste about 7mm thick on the back of tiles and lay then on the binding course according to the pegging. Measure the levelness with a level bar to ensure the flatness of the tiles laid. If adhesive(ceramic tile glue) is used, please follow the directions closely.During ground tiling, the binding course of cement mortar should preferably be 1imited in size to prevent the solidification of the binding course from exceeding the prehardening time(about 45 minutes), causing an unnecessarily tight adhesion between tilesand the base layer, which is easy to cause quality problems, e.g.bubble;During joint-leaving laying, the space between polished tiles should be 2mm~5mm, plus a joint of 1mm~3mm that should be left at the edges of staircases, columns, corridors and walls.

    The tiling should occur after the base layer has solidified. During the tiling, hold a tile at an angle (about 45 degrees)to the base layer and push it gently horizontally for a full contact between its bottom and the layer surface so squeeze out any bubbles. Then, knock the tile with hammer lightly for further contact to prevent any bubble. Then, use a wooden or rubber hammer to balance the tile bottom on the base layer. Measure with a level bar to ensure the levelness of the tiles so 1aid;About 1 hour after the tilling (depending on weather and solidification of cement), use sawdust or sponge to wipe off the cement mortar to prevent the formation of lasting dirt on the surface, which will be hard to clean.

Photos only for reference Actual color of product may vary.

    About 12 hours after tiling. Use a wooden hammer to knock on The tile surface to check for any bubble. If a hollow sound is heard. It will be evidence of bubble and the tile must be laid again. Before the reworking, use a cutting tool to cut a slot about 5mm~8mm along the edge of the tile. Then use a wooden hammer to hit the tile gently to free its bottom from the binding course before using a thin iron sheet to slowly lift the tile. Only by so doing is it possible to conveniently raise a tile with bubble without damaging the surrounding tiles. For purpose of the rework, the base layer must be cleaned and the binding course must be laid again. All the tiles need to be cleared of any surface dirt in time after laying and should be left for 24 hours before walking on them.

    Within 48 hours after the tiles are laid, it is advisable not to use large electric devices, e.g.waxing machine, to prevent the formation of any bubble resulting from the shock on the tiles after they bond with the base layer.

    Efforts should be made to prevent vitrified tiles from contact with anything hard during use to avoid any impact on their gloss. Tile surface should be kept clean and free from the soaking of co 1orfulliquid, which must be cleared away as soon as possible if it is dripped on tile surface due to carelessness.

STEPS OF LAYING GLAZED TILES ON INNER WALLS

• Leveling: Before tiling, clean the wall surface of any dirt, wet it with water and level it out with cement mortar. The tiling should wail until the 1eveled surface has dried completely.
• During the tiling, reserve a joint of 2mm~3mm between the tiles according to actual needs to prevent any tile from falling off or having bubbles because of the different expansion / contractioncoefficient of the wall, tiles and the binding course, which may lead to quality accident.
• Laying: Keep the tiles immersed in clean water for about 1hour until no more bubbles come up. Take out the tiles and wipe off the water stain. Sprinkle sufficient water on the wall surface. Spread a laver of cement mortar evenly on the back of the tiles. which is mixed at the ratio of about 1:2 and about 5mm~6mm in thickness (or thicker for tiles of large size). After the mixing, the grade should be below 200#. Put the tiles on, know witha wooden or rubber hammer for flatness to avoid any bubble. Always use a ruler or level bar to ensure levelness.
• Trimming: After a certain area of tiling, use cement mortar (plaster or gesso slurry) to fill in the joints for leveling. In the end, the tile surface should be cleared of any dirt and receive maintenance.
• During the tiling, attention should be paid to the Grade, specifications, color number and combination of patterns of tiles.Unless a special decorative effect is sought after, tiles of the same grade, specifications and color number should be used for the same room.TECHNICAL ParametersTECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF GLAZED TILES FOR INNER WALLS.